All retinoids are derived from Vitamin A. But what is the best topical retinoid for your skincare routine? Retinol is considered the standard because it has the capacity to improve the appearance of the skin, to reduce aging and signs of wrinkles. But is this the best retinoid?

 When one thinks wrinkle improvement, retinol is most commonly thought of. However, in actuality, this is the least effective retinoid.

 The most common Vitamin A derivatives, or retinoids, used in skincare products, are basically 3 in number - Retin-A, retinaldehyde, and retinol, in decreasing effectiveness.

 The most potent retinoid is Retin-A. However, this has several disadvantages. First, it can only be obtained with a prescription by a doctor. Secondly, it is very irritating to the skin, causing redness, flaky skin, and sometimes even discomfort.

 Next in potency is retinaldehyde. This has the advantage of being  almost as effective in results of wrinkle reduction as Retin-A, but is much less irritating, gentler on the skin, and is available without a prescription.

 Finally comes retinol, the least potent and effective of the retinoids. It still works, but who wants this when there are better alternatives.

 In my opinion, retinaldehyde is the best option, and here is why. Retinol must first be converted into retinaldehyde by the skin and subsequently converted into retinoic acid before it is used to combat skin wrinkles and uneven skin tones. When we use retinaldehyde in cosmetic products we avoid this conversion and the skin irritation that accompanies the chemical reaction, thus producing better results.

 The effectiveness of retinaldehyde has been shown in clinical trials to be the best retinoid for skin care in over-the-counter products. Retinaldehyde produced a statistically significant decrease (improvement) in clinical grading scores for all parameters, including crows feet, fine lines, overall evenness of skin tone, photo damage, tactile smoothness and visual smoothness.

 In a separate third party double-blind clinical study using retinaldehyde, it was determined that the number of wrinkles vastly improved over an eight-week period. Of the products tested:

     Lotion Base (Placebo) average increase +2.06
     Retinol improvement – average decrease -3.31
     Retinaldehyde improvement – average decrease -4.20

It is shown in this study that Retinaldehyde is 25% better than retinol over an eight-week period. 

 One of the most common questions I am asked concerning retinol is whether it can make wrinkles under the eye worse.

 The answer is yes, but only temporarily. This is due to a condition called “epidermal sliding”, where the top level of the epidermis of the skin loosens when strong retinoids are used, which might cause fine wrinkling. But on further use of the product, the skin will tighten and wrinkles will be reduced. So don’t worry.

 Other retinoids available

Retinoids are a class of compounds derived from Vitamin A that are commonly used in skincare for their various benefits. There are different types of retinoids used in skincare products, and each has its own set of characteristics. Here, I'll compare some common retinoids based on efficacy, benefits, results, side effects, and customer satisfaction:

1. Retinol:

   • Efficacy: Moderate to high efficacy. It is considered a milder form of retinoid.
   • Benefits: Stimulates collagen production, promotes cell turnover, and helps with fine lines and wrinkles.
   • Results: Visible improvements in skin texture and tone, but may take longer compared to stronger retinoids.
   • Side Effects: Mild irritation, redness, and peeling are common, especially during the initial use.
   • Customer Satisfaction: Generally high, especially among those looking for a balance between effectiveness and tolerability.

2. Retinaldehyde:

   • Efficacy: Moderate to high efficacy, with a potency between retinol and prescription retinoids.
   • Benefits: Similar to retinol but may be gentler on the skin.
   • Results: Noticeable improvements in skin texture and appearance, with potentially fewer side effects compared to stronger retinoids.
   • Side Effects: Mild irritation, but generally better tolerated than stronger prescription retinoids.
   • Customer Satisfaction: Positive, especially among those with sensitive skin who find retinol too irritating.

3. Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid):

   • Efficacy: High efficacy. Tretinoin is a prescription-strength retinoid.
   • Benefits: Potent in stimulating collagen production, improving fine lines, and treating acne.
   • Results: Visible improvements in skin texture, reduction of fine lines, and acne treatment, but may cause irritation initially.
   • Side Effects: Common side effects include redness, peeling, and dryness.
   • Customer Satisfaction: High among those seeking powerful anti-aging benefits, but some users may find it too irritating.

4. Adapalene:

   • Efficacy: Moderate efficacy. Available both over-the-counter and as a prescription.
   • Benefits: Primarily used for acne treatment, with some anti-aging benefits.
   • Results: Effective in treating acne, but may take longer to show anti-aging effects.
   • Side Effects: Generally well-tolerated, with less irritation compared to tretinoin.
   • Customer Satisfaction: Positive for acne treatment, and some users appreciate its milder side effects compared to stronger retinoids.

5. Isotretinoin:

   • Efficacy: High efficacy. Usually prescribed for severe acne.
   • Benefits: Strong anti-acne effects and can improve skin texture.
   • Results: Dramatic improvement in severe acne cases, but not typically used for general anti-aging purposes.
   • Side Effects: Can cause severe side effects, including dryness, peeling, and in some cases, more serious systemic effects.
   • Customer Satisfaction: High for treating severe acne, but not commonly used for cosmetic purposes due to potential side effects.

Note: Customer satisfaction can vary based on individual skin types and conditions. It's crucial to start with lower concentrations and gradually increase as tolerated. Additionally, sunscreen is essential when using retinoids to prevent sun damage. Always consult with a dermatologist for personalized skincare advice.